After a long and adventurous train journey that took us across the country, we finally arrived in Surat Thani. From there, it was just a short hop to Koh Samui – the first island we explored on our trip.
The Train Journey:
As you might know from our last blog post, we prefer to travel by train because it’s the most budget-friendly option. This time was no different. The seemingly endless journey began in Chiang Mai. First, we headed back to Bangkok, where we had a 10-hour layover. We passed the time at the train station playing games – exhausting, but manageable.
From Bangkok, the next leg of the journey brought us to Surat Thani, a small city that serves as a hub for travelers. From there, we reached the Don Sak ferry terminal, about 2.5 hours away. To make things easier, we opted for a combination ticket that included both bus and ferry transport. Ferries from Don Sak to Koh Samui run hourly, which is super convenient. After about 1.5 hours on the water, we finally made it to Koh Samui! In total, we spent 24 hours on the train, plus an additional 10 hours in Bangkok and 4 hours on the bus and ferry. If you’re not on a tight budget or schedule, flying might be a better option.
Pro Tip: Don’t let yourself be talked into overpriced taxi rides at the Koh Samui pier for 500 baht per person. Instead, use apps like Bolt or Grab, which are much cheaper. Alternatively, you can negotiate hard. We chose the latter and ended up getting a ride on a bus to our bungalow village.
Our Accommodation – Back to Basics:
The accommodation was a completely new experience for us. The bungalows were minimalistically furnished, with just a mattress, a nightstand, and an outlet – everything you need ;) The village offered a communal kitchen where you could cook for yourself or pay for meals to be prepared. There was also a shared bathroom with toilets and showers. It felt a bit like a camping trip. It was definitely an experience, but we’ll likely stick to hotels or apartments in the future.
One big advantage: you could rent a scooter directly at the village, saving us a lot of stress. This felt much safer than trying to find a rental somewhere else. With the scooter, you could circle the entire island in about 2 hours, and it only took us 5 minutes to reach the nearest beach. Koh Samui won us over from the very beginning, and we couldn’t wait to explore the island further – until we checked the weather forecast.
The Weather:
Heat, 30°C, and a cloudless sky – that’s what we expected for our island visit. What no one told us: November to mid-December is still the rainy season on the islands. So instead of a beach vacation, we ended up having a rain vacation. There were occasional dry spells, but for the most part, it poured all day long. Absolutely dreamy ;);
Quick story: Since the weather was so unpredictable, there were times we ended up driving through knee-deep puddles and flooded streets in the middle of a downpour. It’s definitely an experience!
Plan B – Activities and Sightseeing in the Rain:
Of course, you can’t expect perfect weather on every trip, but we didn’t anticipate daily rain. Still, we made the most of it and visited the following:
Chaweng Beach: The most famous beach on Koh Samui, Chaweng is a long stretch of white sand perfect for sunny days. During the day, it has a relaxed vibe, but at night, it transforms into a hotspot with bars, restaurants, and beach parties. You can also find watersports here, from jet skiing to stand-up paddleboarding.
Even though we didn’t visit it in the best weather, it was quiet and peaceful. In the background, you could hear the music from the beach bars, while the sound of the waves dominated the foreground. The water temperature was perfect for swimming, and the sandy beach was very clean.
Lamai Beach: Lamai Beach is like Chaweng’s calmer, but equally beautiful sibling. It’s ideal for those who prefer fewer crowds but still want good facilities. The water is deeper here, making it great for swimming. In the evening, the beach has a relaxed atmosphere with small beachfront bars and restaurants. Don’t miss the famous Hin Ta and Hin Yai rocks nearby, which add a nice touch to your visit.
Thong Krut Beach: Just 7 minutes away from our accommodation, Thong Krut Beach was a real highlight. With its mix of sand and rocks, lined with coconut palms, it’s a true eye-catcher. The best part? This beach was the only one where you could collect seashells, coral, and coconuts. Bonus: we even found a small fossil! We ended our day here with drinks at a beach bar, watching the sunset.
Magic Garden: A hidden gem in the middle of Koh Samui’s jungle, the Magic Garden is like a small, mystical world of its own. Scattered across the lush greenery are statues of Buddha, animals, and mythical figures, surrounded by dense vegetation and little streams. The atmosphere is enchanting and perfect for taking it all in.
However, the road up to the garden is an adventure in itself – best done with a four-wheel drive or as part of a guided tour. We didn’t know this and tackled it on our little scooter, which made for a sweaty and nerve-wracking ride. Some roads were so steep we worried the scooter might give up, but we made it! The view from the top was absolutely worth it.
Na Muang Waterfalls: There are two waterfalls here: Na Muang 1, which is easily accessible and a great spot for a quick dip, and Na Muang 2, which requires more effort to reach. Both are surrounded by lush greenery and are especially impressive during the rainy season when the water flow is stronger.
Tip: Bring your swimsuit – the natural pool is perfect for cooling off! Unfortunately, we only visited Na Muang 1, as Na Muang 2 was closed at the time. The waterfall was stunning, especially in the rain, but we decided against swimming since the water was quite cold.
The Atmosphere:
We experienced Koh Samui as a quiet retreat, but there’s undoubtedly a livelier side to the island as well. Thanks to the rain, everything felt mystical, and staying in our bungalow village gave us the feeling of being deep in an enchanted forest.
My Opinion:
It’s hard to judge Koh Samui since we had such bad weather and didn’t get to see everything the island has to offer. However, what we did see was beautiful, especially the island’s flora and fauna. Price-wise, Koh Samui is comparable to Bangkok.
Next Stop: Koh Phangan
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